
Passage to Peshawar is in the classic vein of voyages of adventure. Richard Reeves, the acclaimed author of American Journey, takes us to one of the most beautiful and dangerous lands: Pakistan -- the ninth-largest country in the world. "There are many wonders and exotic ways between the Hindu Kush and the Arabian Sea," he writes. "Pakistan is an exciting place, from the ancient city of Moenjodaro to the ancient ways still practiced in the pagan valleys Rudyard Kipling wrote of in 'The Man Who Would Be King.' Just to be in the country was an adventure."
The author conveys that adventure with vividness and wit and great feeling for the people he encounters -- from the opening scene Gadani Beach, where gangs of men break up 10,000-ton ships for scrap and then cut up the superstructure like a salami, to the closing scene, which takes place on Eid-ul-Fitr, a day of thanksgiving. On this day the dictator hears the complaints and the pleas of a few of the thousand who have lined up to seek his favor, even kiss his hand. Suddenly a deputy minister comes up behind the author and whispers: "Americans must not believe that this is what the people of Pakistan want."
"What do they want?"
"We are speaking unofficially?"
"Yes, of course."
"People are the same as people in America. The people want democracy. The people want justice. The people want freedom."
But Pakistan today is governed by a military dictatorship, backed by the money and might of the United States. It is our client, the world "frontline" in the terminology of the U.S. State Department, the danger zone in the tests of will and strength between the United States and the Soviet Union. Through the Khyber Pass in Afghanistan, where 135,000 Soviet troops are fighting hundreds of thousands of Mujahideen, the fighters of an Islamic Holy War,descendents of warriors who have always prevailed against their invaders. From Pakistan, the United States channels its aid to these fighters through the frontier city of the Pathans, Peshawar. The book tells how Pakistan, one of the poorest countries in the world, is absorbing millions of even poorer, more desperate people, Afghan refugees.
Richard Reeves paints an unforgettable portrait of this land and its people -- living simultaneously in the Stone Age, the medieval world, the nineteenth century and the technological present, faithful to an austere religion foreign and frightening to us, hustling for the luxuries of modern life. Passage to Peshawar is filled with stark and poetic word pictures. On Independence Day, a "cross section" of the population is assembled. Reeves looks out over the crowd and sees only three women: one of them is his wife.
"Informative, fascinating, and topical. . . . I know of no other journalistic account of a third world country that I can recommend as highly as this." Houston Chronicle
"Passage to Peshawar is teeming with contrasts in landscape, incident and innuendo, all of which are tamed by the keen eye and vivid insights of the narrator. . . . The value of Passage to Peshawar rests largely with the author's ability to communicate the tugs of modernity and tradition on the turbid soul of this populous nation. . . . He succeeds masterfully. . . . A virtuoso performance by a first-rate journalist at the peak of his reportorial and interpretive powers." The Christian Science Monitor
"Reportorial skill and instinct, coupled with his considerable talents as a writer, combine to give us a book that is eminently readable. . . . Reeves offers a series of interwoven essays that give us a feel for the dynamics of the place. . . . It is serious stuff with which he deals -- Islam, the desperate desire for economic growth, the interaction of a great power and developing state in a turbulent part of the world." Richard M. Weintraub, The Washington Post
"He's a brilliant writer. . . . You have a sense of this interesting journalist trying to deal with strange inland tribes in Pakistan . . . or swaying on bridges above chasms." The Los Angeles Times
DENVER — Is Barack Obama prepared to be president? No. Neither is John McCain.
NEW YORK — If you care about the United States and care about swimming — I happen to care about both — who do you want representing you, Michael Phelps or "one of us"?
SAG HARBOR, N.Y. — Coming home after working abroad for a couple of months means looking at mountains — of mail. But a lot of it is from banks offering credit cards and from politicians offering salvation, both for a price. You can throw that stuff out without opening any of it.
PARIS — In comments that will be little noted nor long remembered, Barack Obama and John McCain each talked recently about what it was like running for president — and, thus, about what kind of president each would be.
PARIS — This was one of four Obama headlines last Friday in Le Figaro, the conservative newspaper whose favorite conservative is President Nicolas Sarkozy:
"Sarkozy: 'Obama? C'est mon copain!" ('Obama? He's my buddy!")
PARIS — "Alors," said a gendarme watching President John F. Kennedy step off Air Force One at Orly Airport on May 31, 1961, "he's a real all-American boy, that one."
PARIS — A friend of mine, Don Singleton, a talented writer of impeccable liberal soul, sent me a note last Tuesday — if e-mail can be called a "note" — saying this:
For me at least, celebrating the Fourth of July abroad has always been a special thrill. Whatever your political views and opinions of our leaders of the moment, you feel a physical and vibrant tie to the land of your birth, to the ideas that shaped your own brand of patriotism, your inescapable, prideful Americanism, your bond to other Americans who find themselves in Paris or Stockholm or Peshawar, places I have been on my nation's birthday.
LONDON — A prominent, aggressive and ambitious Conservative politician here, David Davis, recently resigned his seat in Parliament to protest a House of Commons vote extending the time a citizen can be held in jail without charges from 28 to 42 days. A national newspaper poll says 57 percent of respondents support his crusade, but they are almost certainly not telling the truth about that.
PARIS — Newspapers around the world have reprinted and focused on a story that appeared June 8 in The Observer in London about deep-seated racism in rural America. The headline:
"Democrats in Rural Strongholds Refuse to Give Backing to Obama."
PARIS — This was a nice place to be when Barack Obama finally nailed down the Democratic nomination for president. I happened to be speaking at the American Library in Paris last Wednesday evening, when someone asked whether I thought Obama's ascension would really change the world's view of the United States.
NEW YORK — I'm surprised that anyone is surprised that someone who was around President George W. Bush has finally said what has been obvious for years: The 43rd president is an ignorant, stubborn fellow isolated by a bodyguard of lies and liars.
WASHINGTON — This is what I thought was the American social contract when I was growing up in the land of the free and the home of the brave: You could work your way through college, and if you got a decent job, you could buy a house within a few years.
WASHINGTON — "The Change You Deserve" may sound like scrambled Obama, but it was, in fact, considered as this election-year slogan of the National Republican Congressional Committee. It was rejected when someone noticed that it was also the slogan of a prescription drug called Effexor.
WASHINGTON — When they say, "It's not the money ..." — it's the money!
After all is said and almost done, the numbers that are dragging Hillary Clinton to the end of her campaign are not delegate counts but dollar amounts. She is already more than $20 million in debt, and her campaign is costing something like $1 million a day.
NEW YORK — A lot of smart people have spent a lot of time trying to figure out how and why President John F. Kennedy seemed to evolve from an indecisive fool in launching the Bay of Pigs invasion of April 1961 into the cool and calm commander defusing the Cuban Missile Crisis in October 1962.
LOS ANGELES — Face it: "Electability" is just another way of saying Barack Obama is black. The overuse of the word right now is a way of assuring voters, Democrat and Republican, that if they do not want or could not abide a black president, they are not alone.
LOS ANGELES — This campaign is SO over. It is hard to imagine a debate worse than the Clinton-Obama stand-up on Wednesday night in Philadelphia. In case you missed them between what seemed like a hundred commercials, Sen. Hillary Clinton, the shorter white one, and Sen. Barack Obama, the taller black one, answered (or endured) a road-show production of "Dumb and Dumber," starring Charles Gibson and George Stephanopoulos.